Deep in the jungles of Siberut, an old, wiry man with a leathery face and child’s eyes is rubbing a concoction of wild flowers on my bare skin. The ambrosial scent evokes in me feelings of cleansing, of purity, of godliness. He’s singing in a secret, sacred language, passed from teacher to student, foreign even […]

Indonesia is big. Real big. 267,000,000 inhabitants. Over 17,000 islands. More than 700 languages spoken. The world’s largest archipelago, Indonesia confuses our idea of a country, with mind blowing biological, cultural and topographical diversity. And so, eager to discover more of its treasures, I left Bali early October, after a spiritual apotheosis. Finally ready to […]

As I drive my scooter through Bali, singing the Maha Mritunjaya mantra to the top of my lungs, it feels like nothing can hurt me. Small things that would have caused frustration and division in the past, like getting cut in traffic or being yelled at, simply go through me as if I were a […]